How to buy Used Watches – A Buyer’s Guide

The humble watch has become a part of everyday life. Many people see a watch as an essential item and one that they rarely – if ever – leave home without being on their wrist. Of course, as with any ‘everyday’ item, there’s an extent to which a watch can go largely unnoticed. And it’s also true to say that watches mean different things to different people. Watches can simply be a practical timepiece, a piece of jewellery, even a status symbol. Of course, watches can be all three of these things.

Naturally, as technology has advanced, so has the potential of what a watch can be or do. Long gone are the days when a watch was only used to tell the time. This might still be the primary focus but nowadays a watch can be so much more. Used watches can be seen with an array of ingenious and innovative features. Indeed, Smart Watches are essentially mini computers that can be worn on your wrist.

All in all, what this all means is that when it comes to buying second hand watches online there has never been so much choice. Of course, choice is a great thing to have but it does mean that things can be somewhat bewildering – especially if you are not really sure what you are looking for.

However, when all is said and done looking to buy second hand watches is straightforward and simple, if you see it as a process. Firstly, you need to establish what your essentials are. These are the functions and features that you see as your red lines. The things that you simply have to have on any watch you might consider purchasing. The next stage of the process is to evaluate and compare the various options and choices that are in front of you. This might mean that you are on the lookout for a specific make and model of watch, a certain brand – or deciding what might constitute the ‘best fit’ to meet your needs and wants.

This Buyer’s Guide to Used Watches takes you through all the major points and pieces of information that you need to consider when buying a second hand watch. The guide also details the main features and styles of particular brands and watch types. The aim is that this information makes your search simpler and helps your final choice of purchase to be fully informed. In this way, your choice is far more likely to be the right one.

As with any type of product or item, it’s worth thinking about the arguments for buying new and the arguments for buying used and second hand. Of course, buying second hand products is not for everyone. Some people feel that they simply have to have something that is brand new. Similarly, when it comes to a major purchase or a luxury item – and a designer watch would certainly fit into those categories – the visit to the store and the whole shopping experience is definitely part of the appeal. People like the treatment they receive from the sales assistant when they are about to make a big purchase. But that feeling soon passes.

And the bottom line is this: sourcing amazing, high quality, pre-owned used watches is not as difficult as you might imagine it could be. The savings you can potentially make can be massive. So much so, that unless you’ve got a really good reason to not busy second hand watches, you’d really be daft not to.

When buying any second hand item, doing your research about the prices you should expect to pay, so that you don’t end up paying over the odds, is really important. It’s a vital step on your journey to buying second hand watches successfully. You’ll find no shortage of well-established and reputable dealers both in the UK and across the globe who promote their substantial catalogues of watches on the web. If you want to get an idea about the prices that particular watch brands and types sell for, it’s well worth doing some research on sites such as these. With a new product, retail prices rarely stray too far from the RRP (Recommended Retail Price). With used products, working out what the going price for an item can be trickier. This is why you should do your homework.

If you shop around on dealers’ sites you will begin to gain an understanding of the prices that watches can command on the second hand market. You will also see the extent to which used watches might depreciate in value, and how scratches, marks and other damage can affect pricing. Of course, there are no hard and fast rules here – each second hand watch you see for sale is a unique piece in a unique condition. As such, it deserves to have a unique price to match. However, research of this type gives you knowledge. Knowledge is power and being forearmed with an understanding of prices as you begin searching for used watches significantly lessens the chances of you paying more than you should.

It’s understandable, perhaps, that buyers feel more confident buying from established dealers and the like. It tends to be private sellers that cause the most anxiety – even to the point where some people remain extremely wary of or will simply not buy from private sellers.

The reality is that although concerns about buying from private sellers are not completely unfounded, they are definitely exaggerated. If you take heed of some basic common-sense advice and tips about buying second hand watches, the likelihood of you falling foul to a scam is greatly reduced. And, quite simply, bearing in mind the old adage: If something looks too good to be true, it probably is, is always very good advice too.

For everyday watches and models at the lower end of the budget range, authentication and certification paperwork isn’t as relevant and applicable. However, at the top end of the price range and when it comes to the most exclusive of designer second hand watches, paperwork really does come into its own.

Paperwork can be faked, like anything else, but generally speaking it is pretty easy to spot – and counterfeit paperwork is something you are unlikely to encounter. Look out for the CCC (Certified Chronometer Certificate). This will enable you to cross-reference the watch with its serial number, which is a good start at the very least. It’s also a good indicator that the watch is genuine. If a certified chronometer watch is not paired with an accompanying certificate, the sensible advice would probably be to just walk away and avoid.

You should maybe look at the situation as being quite similar to the prospect of purchasing a car without a logbook – it is generally best avoiding. Of course, the absence of relevant paperwork is not an admission of guilt in itself – but a seller of a watch that has mislaid the chronometer certificate could well indicate that they have not properly looked after the watch.

As with a second hand car, having a full service history with the papers to prove it is obviously a bonus. The service papers need not be from a dealer, but obviously you want to see that the source is reputable. Bear in mind that any watch service is a good indicator of a piece having a careful owner. After all, a genuine Rolex service costs £500+. As if other aspects, you are looking for indicators when you enter the used market, and if a seller can provide evidence of such a service history, it’s a clear indication of a careful owner. Therefore, there’s a high likelihood that your purchase will represent a good buy

It’s a simple fact that regardless of the quality of the stainless steel of a watch, scratches are inevitable. A premium brand such as Rolex is renowned for using an exceptionally high- grade stainless steel that buffs up wonderfully even after decades. But, whilst a certain amount of scratching is to be expected on most second hand watches.

However, whilst wear and tear is likely, a watch that appears too battered and abused, superficially, is likely to be have been poorly looked-after in general. You should also. Look for inconsistencies as well. For example, scratched steel on the watch but a pristine, perfect-looking lens could indicate that something on the watch has been replaced. At the end of a day, it’s a judgement call that you need to make. Having said that, purchasing a watch which is in a really poor condition is never advisable.

As with many other second hand items, you should look for signs of age when looking to purchase used watches. Fortunately, there are tell-tale signs to look out for that can help expose the true age of a timepiece. Look out for a patina on the luminescence as this might suggest a watch is potentially older than a seller is claiming it to be. Generally speaking, a patina on the dial or any yellowish colouring suggests age.

Elsewhere on a watch, you should also examine the strap. A loose feeling in metal straps isn’t a major problem itself, but it is a clear sign that a watch is fairly old. Similarly, age in itself need not be a bad thing – just as long as the seller is honest regarding the genuine age of the watch.

As with many other designer items, people are well aware that the counterfeit market is a large and a thriving one. Similarly, just like other designer items, fake watches are always being sold to the unsuspecting public. Naturally, when you come to looking at second hand watches, it is bound to cross your mind that somebody might try and sell you a fake item.

So, how can you spot a fake? Well, certainly the more expensive and exclusive a designer watch is, the more suspicious it is if a seller cannot produce all the relevant paperwork. The higher-end the product, the more authentication paperwork there tends to be. Therefore, absence of certification does can look quite dubious – even if there might be a perfectly innocent reason for it.  One thing you should be aware of is that holograms and swing tags are easy enough to fake and therefore, on their own, they shouldn’t be seen as proof of authenticity.

Another thing to be mindful of is that the quality of counterfeit watches can be excellent. Anybody could be fooled by some of the exceptional fakes that are out there these days. The untrained eye would have difficulty spotting a fake and, superficially, even a genuine brand service centre, such as Rolex, would not really be able to tell if a piece was counterfeit or not without opening it up to look inside it.  Counterfeiters will follow what a brand does and will copy everything from the box and hologram to laser etched logos or symbols. Indeed, the quality of the machinery that counterfeiters use is often high quality too.

On a positive note, fakers tend to stick to only the classic and most popular exclusive models, such as the Rolex Submariner.

All in all though, if you do your homework and be sensible about things – not letting your heart rule your head too much, buying a high-end watch shouldn’t be too difficult. Let common sense reign. You should never rush into a purchase and not be afraid to ask questions. The best advice if something just doesn’t feel right is to walk away. The advice to ‘buy the seller, not the watch’ is also worth remembering.

An increasingly popular section of the second hand watch market is vintage watches. Of course, with the advent of smart watches, we can see just how successfully the latest technology can be exploited on a timepiece. For some people, those that love to keep up with all the latest tech, smart watches are now a must-have. However, on the flipside of that, many people love the look of a retro watch. This is why then market for vintage watches is a particularly fertile one nowadays.

The thing is that even the most advanced of mechanical watches are actually retro watches. The engineering involved in their construction can be innovative and ingenious. The accuracy of such models can be excellent and be incredibly enhanced but the technology of a mechanical watch – cogs and gears – is essentially redundant with all the modern technology that is available now.

This, in essence, is why vintage watches are so popular at the moment – because people have started ask the questions: Why buy a new version of something that uses old technology? Why not buy the original instead?

You have to remember that back in the day vintage watches would have been cutting-edge pieces themselves at the very forefront of technology. Ultimately, a vintage piece is a blast of yesteryear. It’s an opportunity to wear and experience the technology that people used to enjoy – and to own a luxury item. This is the unique selling point of vintage watches.

Of course, retro and vintage looks are popular too. Increasingly, you will see brands and manufacturers revisiting old designs when they introduce new models to their portfolio. For example, a top name such as Omega have become renowned for producing a range of watches that are clearly inspired and influenced by the most appealing watch designs of the 1950s and 1960s. And the last few years has also seen a raft of re-releases. For some people, this approach represents the best of both worlds. It brings together the very best and latest when it comes to technology with the classic designs of the past.

But there is another option – to seek out the original watches instead of pieces that are merely crafted in the style of designs from the past. Hunting down an original is likely to be much cheaper than forking out for a re-release. You’re buying into a piece of history too.

Size matters, and that’s certainly true when it comes to watches. Indeed, it’s another appealing feature of vintage watches. Go back thirty or forty years and you would notice that the size of watch sizes was generally far smaller than you would expect to see these days – typically not exceeding 40mm. The less obtrusive and more subtle look might be just what you are after. If this the case when it comes to searching for used watches, vintage watches should be at the top of your wish list.

All in all, mechanical watches from the pasta are extremely stylish, desirable and collectable pieces. Mechanical watches from the twentieth century tend not to be have mass produced. Rather, they were crafted and released in fairly small collections and limited edition runs.

It’s hard to find used watches that are so exquisitely engineered. This is sophistication and style in a highly neat and attractive package. Each decade of the previous century, naturally, had its own design style. The outer casing of a watch has always been a good indicator of the period a watch is from. The 1940s was a decade of elegance and opulence. By contrast, the 1970s was the decade of chunkiness.

Re-issues are big business and if you search the second hand watch market for long enough, you will undoubtedly come across a plethora of yachter and diver watches that have been lovingly re-issued from the 1970s and 1980s. As with any other type of product, fashions and trends come in and out of vogue over time. This can have a big impact on pricing.

The vast majority of people that look at second hand watches do so because they are looking for a watch that they’ve got their heart set on – and a greatly reduced price from what they would expect to buy for a new model. However, it’s also worth considering that exclusive, high-end watches, such as Rolex, do offer considerable investment opportunities. The designer watch sector is one of the highest performing investment sectors around. Used watches can be a way to mix business and pleasure. There is also a gap in the market, as second hand watches tend to more readily available for men. There are less female models on the market, although the balance has been redressed to some extent in recent years.

Of course, in our technology-rich lives, gadgets and devices have become incredibly advanced. A mobile phone is no longer simply a device that can be used to make calls or send text messages. These days, smart phones are essentially hand-held computers. We can shoot and watch video, browse the internet, write emails, and do all manner of tasks and activities.

Similarly, the days of a watch doing little more than telling the time are long gone. Smart watches are a particular type of second hand watch to look out for in the used listings. There are some important things to remember if you are looking for second hand smart watches.

Most importantly, you should always make sure that the smart watch you are interested in is compatible with your smartphone. For example, Apple watches will only work with iPhones. The likes of Tizen watches are the only type that work with both Android and Apple phones. However, they typically will run will operate with fewer features when they are used with Android devices.

Other key considerations really depend on your lifestyle and how you intend to use the smart watch. For example, if you are intending to use your watch for fitness, there are some great options. You’ll want to ensure that as an absolute minimum you choose a smart watch that features GPS, so that you can track your runs, and heart rate sensors.

Battery life is another consideration that you need to factor into your decision making. As a general rule, hybrid second hand smart watches – models that tend to look more like traditional analog watches usually have the longest battery life. Those models that have touch screens tend to have the shortest battery life.

Other things to bear in mind are the range and quality of apps that are available with the smart watch. Compatibility and features are probably more important, so you should check what is available very carefully.

Check on the availability of replacement straps and bands – and that replacing these is easy to do.

All in all, it is operating system and device compatibility that are the absolutely most important thing to consider, as most smart watches are designed to serve as companion pieces to your smartphone.

There is plenty of money to be saved in the second hand smart watch market, as new models and updates are frequent. As owners upgrade, it means that more second hand models enter the market.

The key thing to remember when searching for second hand watches is that condition and working order are really everything when it comes to used watches. Of course, it is always possible to restore a watch or replace machinery – but it can be very expensive. As a general rule, a watch that looks like it is going to need a considerable amount of work is probably best avoided, even if it comes at a knock-down price.

This is why it is so important that you do your research regarding pricing so that you have a good idea of what the market price is for a particular second hand model. Generally speaking, the more complications – or functions – that a second hand watch features, the more valuable a timepiece is. When we talk of complications, we mean any feature besides the basic telling of the time. Therefore, the inclusion of the day, date and month are seen as complications. When assessing the suitability of a second hand watch you should bear in mind the number of complications and check the working order of these.

The condition of a second hand watch really is so important – especially with a vintage item. It is easy enough to replace some parts of a watch. For example, if the glass is scratched, this is easy to replace and the value of a piece is also largely unaffected. Indeed, most parts that you find on a watch can be replaced. The crown, the feature that is used to wind a watch often gets fairly worn over time – but it can usually be replaced, although the working of the watch is sometimes affected.

There is always a cost associated with replacing parts and machinery of a watch. You should also be aware that over-polishing can be damaging and can result in a loss of value.

Buying used watches is obviously a great way to save a lot of money but there are other pitfalls to watch out for besides the obvious one of checking the authenticity of a watch. You are at the mercy of the seller in that photography is sometimes not of the best quality. Similarly, listing descriptions of items aren’t always detailed or clear. If you’re not happy about something you only have to ask – and you should – but there are other things you can do too.

If you can, try to research the seller. Always look at online reviews and feedback of a seller. At the very least, it should give you a flavour of what a seller is like and how they operate. It should reassure you that they are genuine. It’s worth cross-referencing with third-party review sites, Google and the seller’s social media channels too.

Ideally, you are looking for sellers that offer a transparent returns policy. Being able to return the watch within 30 days of purchase is a term that most reputable dealers and sellers should be happy with.

Again, ideally, a seller should offer a warranty with a watch. You should also check the service history. You need to know who has carried out the service, whether they were qualified to do it, and that genuine parts were used.  There are many brand-accredited service centres and if a seller has proof that these have been used then it is a really positive sign.

Similarly, in terms of the history of a watch, any reputable seller should be able and happy to explain where they bought the model from. You should check back to ensure that there is no record of theft.

Essentially, and we’ve mentioned it once before but it is worth repeating – if something looks too good to be true, it probably is. This is why you need to do your research about the current pre-owned market value of particular models. If a price quoted is considerably lower than the typical pre-owned market price then there is a good chance that the item is either counterfeit or stolen. It could also be a sign that the watch is one that is known in the trade as a Frankenstein – one that has a mixture of parts from two or more watches.

When it comes to second hand watches there's now certainly more choice than ever before.  As we’ve already stated, that can make your search for the perfect used watch something of a challenge.

However, this Buyer's Guide takes you through all the key things you need to bear in mind about purchasing second hand watches. We wish you all the best in your search. We are confident that if you follow the advice given in this guide, alongside the additional information that can be found on our brand and watch type pages then you will be well-placed to have a successful search.

Good luck!